The Bushmen of the Kalahari
Desert
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| A bushmen woman |
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The people commonly known throughout the world as Bushmen, but
more properly referred to as the Basarwa or San, have been resident
in and around the Kalahari Desert for probably thousands of years.
Originally nomadic hunters and gathers, the lifestyle of the Basarwa
has gradually changed (somewhat forcibly) with the times and they
now live in settlements, some of which are situated within the
southern half of the Central Kalahari Desert Game Reserve. The
Botswana Government is, however, rather controversially encouraging
these people to move to areas outside the reserve in order that
they may be provided with modern facilities, schools, clinics,
etc. and to integrate them into modern society.
Other fairly recent residents were Mark and Delia Owens, who
spent many years in the Deception
Valley area of the park undertaking research mainly on brown
hyena. They set up their camp in the northern section of Deception
in a prime "tree island", however tree islands are no
longer used for camping in these days of more environmental awareness.
The Owens' book, "Cry
of the Kalahari" brought the attention of readers to
this previously little visited area and even today many people
refer to the Central Kalahari Desert simply as Deception. The
name "Deception" comes from a pan, the dry surface
of which sometimes appears convincingly full of water until one
gets right to the edge.
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| Bushmen women
sitting around the fire |
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Basarwa are believed to be the earliest inhabitants of Botswana and
the surrounding areas, they are currently the second largest group
of indigenous hunter-gatherers in Africa, second only to the Pygmies
of equatorial Africa who number some 200,000.
History of the Basarwa
Their earliest history and culture is recorded in rock paintings,
folk tales and songs. The proper name for this group of people is
San meaning 'person' but they are more commonly referred to as 'Bushmen'.
Although they are increasing in number their traditional life-style
has changed due to acculturation and inter-marriage. At present there
are 3,000 Basarwa living predominately by hunting and gathering.
The Basarwa communities living in the traditional hunter-gatherer
manner can be found in Northern Kweneng between Kunwane and Khutse,
others ay Tshwaane pan between Dutlwe and Tsetseng. Some can be
found near Lonetree Pan on the main road to Ghanzi or on the road
from Hukuntsi to Nojane. A group lives near Tsodilo Hills and many
small groupings live west of Qwangwa and southwards beyond Caecae
.
Traditions
By tradition Basarwa live in groups, which consists of a number of
related families. They live entirely by hunting and collecting veld
foods. As these people move frequently they have no established homes
and make temporary huts using branches planted in a semicircle, interwoven
at the top and covered with tuffs of grass.
Since independence the Government has embarked on a programme aimed
at developing and integrating Basarwa into the mainstream of Botswana
society. This policy has angered both the Basarwa themselves who
in many cases have been forcibly relocated into bleak Government
settlements, as well as anthropologists who are aghast at such an
important culture being marginalized and traditional hunting and
survival skills being lost.
Tourist Attraction
For the tourist, the bushmen of the Kalahari Desert are offering
something different - the chance to participate directly in their
hunter-gatherer life - stalking game with the men or helping the
women dig up roots and tubers or climb into trees for wild fruit.
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| A Bushman "grandmother" |
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Little is hidden from the visitor; with the Nharo Bushmen of Botswana
I joined the chorus of a clapping, singing full moon dance, watching
as a woman with terrible swellings in her leg was attended by a healer
in deep trance, who screamed as if in pain, frothed at the mouth
and shouted at unseen spirits. To bring him out of the trance, burning
coals were rubbed on the healer's back, but neither man was burned
and next morning, the woman's swellings were gone.
As Andrea Hardbattle, a half-English, half Nharo woman who
organises Tours with the Bushmen says:
"Most Westerners just don't get these kinds of experiences, not unless they
spend years in the bush."
But it is necessity that has sparked the Bushmens' new-found interest
in tourism. Confined to ever-decreasing 'islands' of wild land by
more aggressive cattle-owning tribes, the Bushmen have, over the
past 20 years, seen thousands of kilometres of wire fences erected
across their old hunting grounds, the game killed or driven off,
and the wild foods grazed and trampled out. The arrival of tourists
(mostly Europeans, though lately an increasing trickle of Americans)
has provided a way to break that cycle.
As Benjamin Xishe, an English-speaking Ju'/Hoansi puts it:
"Tourists bring money. Without money we cannot keep the land, without land
we cannot exist. For us it is a last stand."
Bushmen activities that can be experienced by visitors include:
- Familiarisation Bushwalk
- The familiarisation walk identifying places of interest, including
natural salt/mineral licks and caves.
- Identification of trees,bushes, spoor, birds and other animals,
etc.
- Gathering of Veldt foods
This is a guided walk to identify the "salad and root vegetables".
All samples collected will be tasted by clients after they have
been prepared in the afternoon. May be of particular interest to
vegetarians, veldt foods can be sampled by clients at this time.
As part of re-education, the 'Melon dance' will be performed by
the women of the clan to celebrate a good harvest of veldt foods,
this is an opportunity for the younger women to learn the dance.
Preparation of veldt foods, stamping, cooking and mixing of the
salads and other foods gathered during the bushwalk.
Melon Dance
A celebration dance for a good harvest performed by the women of
the clan. The women also take this opportunity to show off to the
men they wish to attract. They also play the foot bow, and anywhere
from one to ten women will play on one bow.
(see photo gallery of
bushmen in the kalahari desert)
Bushwalk for Herbal medicines
An introduction to the plants used by the Bushmen of the Ghanzi
district for various ailments. Works the same as the bushwalk,
but with the walk concentrating on the identification of medicinal
plants and their uses.
Trance Dance
A rare event, mainly because it is part of Bushmen Religion and
not something to be put on. The Sharman refuse to perform this
ritual unless someone is genuinely ill, so it is not taken lightly.
A god alternative to the trance dance is the rain dance which is
more of a celebration of a good hunt, for pleasure or for the pleasure
of having a get together.
(see photo gallery of
bushmen in the kalahari desert)
Rain Dance
Similar to the trance dance, although no religion or talking to
the gods involved, a very light hearted affair.
Hunting Experience
A guided simulation hunt with two Bushmen, hunting traditionally.
Basic Hunting and Survival skills (simulated hunting and tracking).
Identification of tracks and a basic course in methods of tracking,
hunting and if requested traps for various animals.
Myths and Legends of the Kalahari Desert
This takes place in the camp in the afternoon under the shade of
a big Camel thorn tree or after the evening meal by the dying embers
of the camp fire, to accompaniment of the sights and sound of the
African night.
Traditional Craft Skills demonstration
There is a group of people resident at Kampoorra who spend their
day making the hardware and traditional "jewellery" for
the Red People. A chance to see how necklaces and bangles are made
from scratch with Ostrich eggshells, glass beads and seeds, using
sinew to string them. In addition to all this, male hardware skills;
producing and repairing of hunting sets, tanning skins and curing
hides. As well as the making of rope and glue.
Games
Can only be described as 'Bushmen Olympics', a series of games
played by children, that is a basis for the hunting skills necessary
in later life. Visitors will be encouraged to participate, as the
real element of fun is participation and group enjoyment.
Music of the kalahari desert
Mouth bow, foot bow and thumb piano. A soothing way to round off
the day, although it is so much more enchanting if played at night.
These activities are offered on Our Bushmen Tours and at Deception
Valley Lodge and Jack's
Camp only in the Kalahari Desert, Botswana.
Explore Further
More about the Pans in the
kalahari desert...
More about the Central
Kalahari Desert Game Reserve ...
More about the Bushmen people of
the San...
More about the Bird Species found
in the Kalahari Desert ...
Visit our camps and lodges section to review the sumptuous accommodation
on offer in the kalahari desert click here |
